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Wilwood clutch master cylinder brackets S13, S14, S15, S12
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SIK-O-NINE
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

want one..... shipped to 91913.

shawshank240@yahoo.com


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92LSwanabe
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rigid wrote:
I have plenty! Shoot me an email.


just emailed you


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rigid
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.


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zlatsky
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How's it affect pedal feel?


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TurboGoKart
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not at all.


You'll NEED the Wilwood .75" master cylinder in order to mate the clutch hydrolics from trans up to the car. And of course, you'll need this adapter bracket too. Works like an absolute charm.



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ricke9590
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Price shipped USPS to 96326. thanks


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rigid
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ship USPS flat rate so the price on the first post is good anywhere in the USA. $20.80 shipped.


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rigid
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've update the first post with updated shipping info, it went up to $5.00 for priority flat rate a while back, I was just too lazy to update here.

Also, you can now buy them online at www.rigidracing.com

Thanks!


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kanyon drift
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see why people are taking the wilwood apart and using the stock nissan rod pretty sure you'll end up with some slop doing it that way. I would just retap the threads on the stock nissan clip thing that threads on and attaches the rod to the pedal. That way u leave the wilwood untouched.


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kirk
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with that.



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I remember when people use to communicate crap about ls1 in a really 240sx. I think its so funny. I think they experienced been just huge haters! great to determine an extra venture started. Weird seeing metal blocks. I just not use to it anymore Smile
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kanyon drift
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kirk wrote:
Good luck with that.


What is that too hard for u or something?


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kirk
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since they are practically the same size thread but one is metric and one is SAE, the threads will be pretty much trash after you run a die over it.

Also when you put the 240sx rod in the Wilwood MC there isn't any play at all. The "heads" on the rods are practically the same.

Have you actually done this, or are you just "pretty sure"...?
Also if you're worried about leaving the Wilwood untouched, then you are on the wrong forum.


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kanyon drift
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just did it the other day per Todd at fueled instructions just seems like the proper way to do it. Pretty sure it was 10/24 npt. Ill add it to my build thread.


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SIK-O-NINE
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

re-tapping the threads from Metric to SAE on the U-shape clevis nut/joint is a bad news. you're taking away more metal and you won't have a whole lot of threads to bite on. we move our clutch a lot.... and later on your clutch clevis bolt comes loose then "shit happens". stick to the same swap it's safer.

.....safety comes first.


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SIK-O-NINE
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and those threads are not NPT (national pipe thread) or tapered thread. it's standard (straight thread) metric or SAE. But if you did decide to re-tap the hole make sure to add another nut behind the U-shape clevis joint/fork to locked the wilwood clevis bolt in place. now you have 2 locking nut.... one in the front and one in the rear. fitment might be tight but a little grinding on the nut will do the trick. and that should hold it together. Wink

.....seems like a lot of work to me. Mad


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