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Hooker S13/S14 Mild & Stainless Steel LS Engine Swap Hea
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Beejis60
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What size piping do we need to make slip connections work over the 3" headers? I'm making my own exhaust.


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toddoky
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piece of cake, you use 3" tubing to make a 3" slip connector...any local muffler shop should be able to expand the ends of the tubing up for you and 3" Torca accuseal band clamps can be purchased online from multiple sites including Summit Racing.


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vosko
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used some random napa band clamps but i think i might try those torca ones now


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TheOne
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

toddoky wrote:
Piece of cake, you use 3" tubing to make a 3" slip connector...any local muffler shop should be able to expand the ends of the tubing up for you and 3" Torca accuseal band clamps can be purchased online from multiple sites including Summit Racing.


I had the chance to speak with a major exhaust supplier for OEM's about exhaust band clamps.

Yes, Torca band clamps are used in OEM exhausts, but it's typically pretty far downstream. The C6 Corvette uses them on their H cross over tubing assembly, although it's flanges up front, and clamps downstream.

I'm not really sold on the idea of band clamps right off the headers, unless you have something to show otherwise?


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brewster240
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are you so against them? Is your exhaust a moving part?

Been fine on my car for years, aside from the person who made the y pipe making one side to short


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vosko
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My napa generic clamps work fine too. I haven't really had any problems with them and if your exhaust fits correctly that helps too


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TheOne
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't take it the wrong way,I'm not for or against them. Just trying to figure out which is the best option.

I hate doing things a second time to correct a mistake.

I'm trying to decide between the Sikky 1 3/4" ceramic headers versus the Hooker ceramic 1 3/4. Obvious difference is having v-bands versus clamps.

A friend of mine was using Torca's with his 350 SBC and they seemed to leak at locations nearest to the engine.

Hooker is saying OEM's use them, so I'd like to know if OEM's use them at connections nearest to the engine.


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toddoky
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OEM's use them as well as a vast multitude of aftermarket companies, both on hot-end applications (near manifolds) and cold-end (nearer to the tip). Torca clamps can be purchased in 304ss as well as 430ss and both will survive this environment as well as a V-band assembly, which are also typically made from 304SS. OE applications usually include catalytic converters also, the heat from which does not have to be accounted for in this application and others like it.

I've worked for two respected aftermarket header companies for the past 15 years and both have used them on header collectors with zero issues...as long as the slip connector slots are properly sized and deburred and a total number of 4 slots are equally placed around the joint, not 3 like some have tried.

I've seen guys cut the slots with a hacksaw or thin cut-off wheel which makes them too narrow and allows them to close-up on themselves before the pipe fully closes down around the pipe, which causes them to leak.

The clamp also needs to be tightened using Torca's requirement of closing the band ends to within a certain measured distance and not to a specific torque reading.

OEM's typically use some sort of ball connector and/or flexible bellows to accomodate a greater degree of production tolerance that allows acceptable fitment of a greater number of parts on an assembly line...it only takes a few uninstallable parts to kill an inline manufacturing line and bring it to a standstill.

Most aftermarket parts are built using a smaller batch process, which devotes more time per unit to craft the desired outcome...the cost of this slower process is obviously included in the price of the header and passed on to the consumer.


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toddoky
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a quick search online and found this photo of a Torca clamp being used in a stock OE application (Dodge Viper)directly behind the catalytic converter. If Chrysler is comfortable using these clamps at the temperatures produced from a catalytic converter, you should feel at ease to use them anywhere in a non-catalyzed aftermarket system.

V-bands are also fine, they just provide an edge to catch on should they come in contact with the ground or with something that gets run over.
If you can tuck them up under the frame completely, I feel confident in using them as well.


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rigid
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post some pictures of the mild steel versions sealing face? It looks from the pictures on the first page that you are tack welding them on the outside. Are you pushing the tube through the flange, welding it, then grinding the welds down? Does it leave a raised ring? I've had some problems with headers like that sealing (including some hooker block huggers). That also makes it a real pain to find gaskets that will work (factory GM's won't work, Fel-pro's inside diameter is too big, ect).

I noticed the stainless ones are completely flat, just curious about the mild steel ones.

thanks.


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toddoky
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good question Rigid...the tubes are extended through the flange
to a distance of 1/16" from the sealing surface using spacing shims and then stitch welded with the 3/4" long welds you mention on the outside of the flange to hold everything in place. The header is then removed from the fixture and the ports are fully TIG welded within the 1/16" margin produced by the shims, so no post-weld grinding or surfacing is need. It really produces a nice flat surface that just about any gasket will seal against.


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rigid
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for responding on a weekend. They look like they hang a bit lower than my current ones, but I'll buy a set and try them out.


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toddoky
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem, I get notifications sent to my yahoo email when someone posts something to the Hooker threads so I can answer questions if they happen to pop up on the weekends...Blane runs around Bowling Green KY, with his 240 without issue on the ground clearance, so unless your car is crazy low you'll have the same experience.


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rigid
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the headers in. They look good and have flat flanges like I wanted. I do have a question about gaskets. I noticed in the instructions it says the stainless headers are made to be used with stock GM gaskets. Is there a reason the mild steel versions would need a different gasket? Is it due to the flange stiffness not being able to compress the multi-layer GM gaskets? What material are the gaskets they come with made from? Are they fiber core laminate?

I've got 3 different sets of gaskets here I could use, I just want to use the best sealing and longest lasting set. Besides the set that came with the headers I have a new set of factory GM gaskets and some steel core laminate fel-pro gaskets.

I would have to say the fasteners that came with these are much better than the last set of hooker headers I bought. These are nice flange head cap screws.


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brewster240
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the stainless use a completely different flange than the other style.


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